Mini Horse Guide

One of the most adorable things I’ve ever seen in all my years of being around horses is the picture of a teeny tiny horse curled up in a human’s lap. I was familiar with ponies and their unique appearance, but had never seen Miniature Horses – that look just like a big horse except they’re really small. Generally under 34″ tall at the withers according to the American Miniature Horse Registry.

Having ridden and shown full-size horses, I knew that just about all of the same activities could be accomplished with a miniature horse. Trail riding, carting, jumping, and more. Sometimes, depending on the size of the horse and the rider, these would be done with no one actually “riding” the mini – they’d be on the ground, and would guide the horse over the jumps or whatever the exercise was. Pulling a cart with an adult or two in it is something most minis can do easily, as they can pull a lot more weight in a cart than they can on their backs.

Many older horse folks turn to minis when the big guys get to be too much work (not to mention expense). They can continue to indulge their love of horses but on a smaller scale. As our bodies get older, we begin to appreciate the smaller things in life as they are less wear and tear on our bodies!

There is no such thing as a Miniature Horse breed. They are descended from many different breeds of horses, and even ponies, as breeders sought smaller and smaller animals. There are many different registries for miniature horses, and some refer to the specific parent breed. Mini Arabians, for example, look pretty much like regular sized Arabians, and the conformation requirements are often the same or are very similar. The introduction of ponies into the bloodlines to bring in smaller size often introduced the typical pony look rather than the horse look. And using dwarf ponies or horses produced a distinctive look of its own, not to mention health and physical problems.

Mini Horse Guide

But I was astounded to learn that Miniature Horses were also used as guides for the blind! Mini horses possess the kind of temperament that makes them wonderful guides – they are much more affectionate and bondable to humans than larger horses, but not as susceptible to over-bonding the way that some dogs can be. The show very good judgment in keeping their person out of trouble, and their size (26″ or smaller) is comparable to a dog’s but they have more strength and stamina to assist their person.

They can be house trained, so they can go anywhere a guide dog can go including airplanes, restaurants, the theater, etc. Anywhere a service dog is allowed, the guide horse can go to according to the Americans With Disabilities Act. How cool is that??!!

Why would someone want a guide horse? Well, for one thing, not every likes dogs! Or they are allergic to them, but horses are considered to be hypo-allergenic. Equestrians who find themselves in need of a guide tend to prefer the animal they’ve loved all their lives. Minis tend to live good long lives – 20-30 years is typical, with some reaching 50 years of age easily. This is important for people who strongly bond with their service animals and have a hard time saying goodbye to their service dog every 8-12 years. Mini horses are stronger than dogs, and this comes in handy if the person needs assistance in getting into or out of a chair.

Guide horses are trained and certified by the Guide Horse Foundation and are provided free of charge to their new owners. Extensive training by experienced horse trainers using a variety of techniques from the horse, guide dog, behavioral science, and cavalry/riot police horse training disciplines develop a safe and trusted guide horse for some lucky person.  They rely on donations of both money and horses to continue this wonderful program, and I hope that if you’re a horse-lover you’ll consider making a small contribution to this great effort.

One thing that touched me was that many of the miniature horses in the program are rescues. Each year in this country, thousands of unwanted horses both large and small are sent to slaughterhouses or are rescued from abusive or neglectful homes. This program gives these doomed animals a new lease on life, in a way that makes an unimaginable difference to the lives of the people they are helping. Each animal is carefully screened for physical health and temperament, because a person’s life will depend on them. It amazes me that animals who who received in some cases horrific abuse at someone’s hands could still give the unconditional love and support to a human being in need. I doubt that many people, given the same treatment, would be so forgiving.

Anyway, this is a great program and I hope it’s given you a few things to think about. One of my pet peeves is the totally mindless and irresponsible breeding programs (both in dogs and in horses!) that goes on, to the point where people have flooded the market with unwanted animals. And in these bad economic times, people are abandoning them in record numbers.  What are we thinking??!!

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When buying a previously-owned saddle, it will usually come with cinches and stirrups, but be sure to ask to confirm! Read our saddle-buying tips article before making an offer or placing a bid.

Measurements for English all-purpose, eventing, close-contact and dressage saddles usually range from 14″ to 19″ using 1/2″ increments. Saddle seat or cutback saddles usually measure from 17″ to 22″ using 1″ increments. Measurements for Western saddles sizes usually range from 13″ to 17″ using 1″ increments.

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Buying the wrong western saddle is a very common occurrence in the western riding world. It’s also a very expensive learning experience. You can skip this painful lesson by avoiding the top seven western saddle buying mistakes.

1. Buying Pretty. While we’d all like a nice looking saddle, letting looks drive your buying decision is asking for trouble. The quality of the saddle materials and the construction are far more important than the look of a saddle. A poorly made saddle can look awfully pretty, especially to the uninitiated. Don’t fall for this one.
2. Buying Image. Have dreams of riding the range and working a cattle drive? Or maybe riding to an NFR championship buckle in barrel racing? While the cowboy and cowgirl dreams and imagery can be strong and enticing, don’t let those images determine your saddle choice. Choose a saddle type that fits the actual type of riding that you’ll be doing.
3. Buying Cheap. Cheap saddles are not a bargain. Poor quality materials and construction will shorten saddle life, and, more importantly, will cause discomfort and impair movement in your horse. If you can’t afford at least a middle-of-the-road new saddle ($500 and up), then buying used is a great solution. Quality saddles last a long time, making buying a “pre-owned” saddle a smart buy.
4. Buying Dumb. You need to educate yourself on some saddle basics before buying. Ride in as many different saddles as you can. Talk to all the horse people you know about their saddles. Pick the brain of knowledgeable saddle folks. And, always, before purchasing a saddle, know the seller’s tryout and return policies.
5. Buying Selfish. You found a saddle that’s high quality, pretty, and fits you well. You’re all set right? Wrong. You’re forgetting one very important partner in this deal – your horse. If the saddle doesn’t fit your horse well, than the rest doesn’t matter. Make sure you understand the basics of horse fit and determine beforehand whether the saddle will be a good fit for your horse.
6. Buying One-Size-Fits-All. While you shouldn’t need a different saddle for every horse you ride, one saddle will not fit every horse you run across. The best approach is to choose a saddle that will fit the basic physical type of horse that you’ll ride. For instance, I ride Quarter Horses that are on the smaller size. I have a saddle that will fit most horses of this type. If you ride more than one type of horse, you’ll need multiple saddles.
7. Buying Brand (or Endorsement). This one is a little trickier. Buying a well-established brand is not a bad idea. You just need to be aware that a number of saddle brands have been around a long time and the quality of their saddles have varied significantly over time. The quality can also vary within a brand’s current product lines. They might have great roping saddles but just average barrel saddles. Never just blindly buy by brand without thoroughly inspecting the quality of the saddle in consideration. Additionally, celebrity endorsement can seem like a stamp of approval, but it really doesn’t mean more than that the celebrity is receiving payment for use of his or her name. Very few celebrities have any input into the design and construction of the saddles bearing their name.

Many riders have a tack room full of saddles that didn’t work out. Others are constantly buying and selling saddles in search of just the right one. It doesn’t have to be this way. If you do your homework beforehand to truly understand your horse’s and your own needs, you can purchase the one saddle that will be a match for you, your horse, and your riding activities.

Beth Stefani is the publisher of www.western-saddle-guide.com, a comprehensive online resource for understanding, choosing, and caring for the western saddle and accessories that are right for you.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Beth_Stefani

http://EzineArticles.com/?Western-Saddle-Buying:-Top-7-Buying-Mistakes&id=299330

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By Beth Stefani

When you’re looking for a quality western saddle, a used saddle can be a smart choice. The best saddles will last a lifetime with proper care. So, like luxury cars, a quality used saddle can be more aptly described as previously-owned. You can buy a lot more saddle for your money in the used category.

But buying used requires close inspection of the saddle prior to buying. A used saddle is bound to have some wear and some scuffs and scrapes. That’s to be expected. What you’re really looking for are structural problems. The following are the top 7 used saddle inspection tips.

1. Saddle Tree. The saddle tree is the foundation of a saddle, so if it’s not solid nothing else matters. To test the tree, set the saddle on its fork, nose down. Press down hard on the cantle and twist, looking for bending which is an indication of a broken tree. A broken tree is a deal breaker. DO NOT purchase a saddle with a broken tree.
2. Leather Quality. High quality leather will be thick, soft, and supple. It has a much longer life, especially if well cared for. Low quality leather will be thin, often cracked, and will not keep its shape. Avoid buying used saddles with low quality leather. There’s no bargain there.
3. Leather Condition. Check whether the jockeys and skirts lie flat or curl up. Curling is a sign of either poor quality leather or leather that is used-up. It’s pretty much impossible to get curled leather to lie flat again. If the leather looks to be of good quality (thick, doesn’t curl), but looks dried out, a good cleaning and conditioning can do wonders and bring back a lot of its luster.
4. Underside Fleece. Expect to find a good amount of wear and dirt here, but excessive wear may require having the fleece replaced which isn’t cheap. Also, uneven wear can be a sign of a badly designed saddle that doesn’t fit well and should be avoided.
5. Stitching. Check the stitching to make sure it’s intact. Minor problems can be repaired, but a saddle with a lot of rotting and missing stitching should be avoided.
6. Surface. While a quality saddle can last a long time, the care it receives will impact its lifespan and its appearance. Saddles are made to be used and passing on a quality used saddle because of some scratches and scuff marks is a mistake. But, you’ll have to determine what you can live with.
7. Parts Inventory. Do a check to see which parts might be missing. Most parts (stirrups, stirrup hobbles, billets, cinches) can be easily replaced (and many will prefer their own choices anyway), but missing parts should factor into the price.

Buying a used saddle can be a very smart choice, IF you carefully inspect the saddle prior to purchase.

Beth Stefani is the publisher of www.western-saddle-guide.com, a comprehensive online resource for understanding, choosing, and caring for the western saddle and accessories that are right for you. Visit Western Saddle Guide for more tips and information about western saddles and accessories.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Beth_Stefani

http://EzineArticles.com/?Western-Saddles:-7-Inspection-Tips-For-Buying-Used&id=302067

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WHAT DO I DO WITH MY HORSE IN FIRE, FLOOD, AND/OR EARTHQUAKE?

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English Saddles: How to Fit: Pain-Free

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The Western Horse’s Pain-Free Back and Saddle-Fit Book: Soundness and Comfort with Back Analysis and Correct Use of Saddles and Pads

If you want to learn how to fit your horse properly for a Western saddle, this DVD is available now and is great viewing. Click on the link to order this DVD today.

Western Saddles: How to Fit: Pain-Free

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Keep in mind, though, that good quality draws the money, and you must be realistic about what you can expect to pay for a world class saddle. You will be unlikely to find an excellent USED saddle that was custom made for its first owner and cost $8,000 to $10,000 going on eBay for $100. It just doesn’t work that way unless there is something seriously wrong with the item. But paying $3,000 for a $8,000 saddle is a great bargain!

In general, you will not get a top-quality used saddle for under $400 or $500 (Western), or less than $800 (English). You could get lucky, but you should keep these figures in mind. The concept that’s important here is not getting a cheap saddle (your horse and you will end up paying for this mistake in many unpleasant ways), but getting good value for your money.

Because there is such a hot market for these high quality saddles and bridles, we recommend that you use our Bookmark link to save the page with the items you’re interested in to your favorite bookmark site. And check back daily because new items are always being added – sometimes with a GREAT buy-it-now price!

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